Understanding Furocoumarins

Furocoumarins, also known as psoralens, are a class of organic chemical compounds produced by a variety of plants. They are most notably found in citrus fruits such as bergamot, lemon, lime, and grapefruit, as well as in other plants like angelica and rue.

The Risk: Phototoxicity

The primary concern with furocoumarins in cosmetics and fragrances is their potential to cause phototoxicity. When applied to the skin and exposed to UV light (sunlight), these compounds can cause severe skin reactions, including redness, inflammation, burns, and hyperpigmentation. This reaction is due to the compounds binding with DNA in skin cells under UV exposure.

Managing Furocoumarins in Formulations

To ensure consumer safety, regulatory bodies and industry associations have established strict guidelines:

• IFRA Standards: The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) has set specific limits on the levels of phototoxic furocoumarins in consumer products. For example, there are limits for Bergapten, one of the most potent furocoumarins.
• EU Cosmetics Regulation: In the European Union, specific restrictions apply to the use of furocoumarins in leave-on and rinse-off products.

How We Can Help

Formulators must carefully calculate the total furocoumarin content of their products, especially when using multiple essential oils. Our Formulator 3000 software simplifies this complex task by automatically calculating furocoumarin levels based on your ingredient list and alerting you if your formulation exceeds safe limits.